9 TIPS FOR SETTING UP A REEF AQUARIUM

If you’re planning to set up a reef aquarium, get off to a good start by doing a little research on the types of inhabitants you plan to keep.

It’s especially important to understand their natural environment so that you can recreate a similar world in your tank. Building an aquarium habitat that closely simulates real ocean conditions will allow your reef community to thrive.

You’ll also need to determine what type of reef aquarium you want to create. For instance, will your setup include mostly soft corals or hard corals? Your choice of inhabitants will influence the equipment you need to buy.

How To Set Up a Reef

The main key to a successful reef setup is patience. A healthy reef tank cannot be created overnight. It takes time to establish and cultivate the proper conditions for its inhabitants. Moving too quickly often results in failure.

1. Location

Select a location where the tank will be set up. The ideal area should allow you clear visual access so that you can fully enjoy your new aquarium’s beauty and serenity.

Avoid choosing a location that is:

• Drafty (do not put your tank near doors and air vents to prevent undesirable temperature changes)
• Near a heater (radiator)
• Near a window
• In direct sunlight
• Near other sources where room temperature may not be constant, such as the kitchen
• Too hot or too cold, as well as high traffic areas

If possible, select a location that is near a GFI power outlet and a water source.

Also keep in mind that a full aquarium weighs approximately 10 pounds per gallon (1.19 kg per liter) plus the original weight of the tank and stand. So ensure that the floor in the selected location is level and well supported.

Note: Make sure that there’s enough room behind and around your aquarium for equipment, wires, tubing, maintenance and cleaning.

2. Tank Selection

When shopping for a tank, it’s best to buy the largest tank that your home and budget allows. The reason for this is that a larger tank provides a more stable environment and makes the maintenance of water chemistry easier over time.

Choose an aquarium stand/cabinet that will support the weight of the fully set up aquarium.

Tip: When selecting the stand/cabinet, look for one that can house your equipment and other tools.

Note: Be cautious of tall or irregularly shaped aquariums as they may have a smaller surface area than traditionally shaped ones. A large surface area allows for increased gas exchange and superior water quality.

Reef tanks are available in two basic varieties: glass and acrylic. An acrylic tank is lighter, better insulated, and allows the option of drilling a hole through it for hosing. A glass tank is more resistant to scratches, discolouration, and is usually less expensive than an acrylic tank.

3. Prepare The Aquarium

Before you begin with your set up, make sure that your new tank is clean. Gently wipe it down with a clean, damp cloth. Rinse with lukewarm water. Never use a bleach, commercial glass cleaner, detergent or chemical cleanser to clean inner or outer aquarium glass. Never use a bucket that has been exposed to soap, detergent or any chemicals to transport water for your aquarium.

Once you’ve thoroughly cleaned the tank, you can add an aquarium background, if you’ve decided to have one.

Why install a background?

• It hides electrical cords and hosing running along the back of the aquarium
• It adds depth and provides visual contrast to live rock and fish
• It provides a nice finishing touch

4. Equipment Installation

Ensure that all the equipment you buy is designed for saltwater aquariums. As mentioned above, what you choose to keep in your tank will influence the type of equipment you’ll need. Basic equipment includes:

• Protein Skimmer/Filter
• Heater & Thermometer
• Circulation pumps/Powerheads
• Lighting

When installing new equipment, read and follow the manufacturer’s instructions before you set them up for best results.

Did You Know?

The ideal temperature range for a reef tank is between 72°F and 78°F (22.2°C and 25.5°C). The high intensity lighting used on a reef tank can produce a large amount of heat. If the temperature of the tank cannot be maintained below 80°F (26.7°C), you’ll experience problems. In this happens, consider using an aquarium chiller. The less the temperature varies throughout the day/night, the more stable the environment will be.

5. Add Substrate (Optional)

Adding bottom substrate in a reef aquarium is a matter of personal choice. Many hobbyists prefer a “bare bottom” reef aquarium as it simplifies cleaning and allows adequate water flow around the rocks.

If you choose to add live sand, rinse it in salt water first, then add it to the aquarium. The sand will serve as a bed for the live rock.

6. Fill The Tank

Prepare the salt water: To mix the salt water, fill your container with clean water and add a dechlorinator. For best results, use water that has been purified by a reverse osmosis (RO) system. Add salt mix to the water, following the instructions on the label. Determine the salinity level of the water using a hydrometer, the goal is 1.025. This is the level you want to maintain in your reef tank at all times.

Did You Know?

Distilled water is not recommended for creating salt water. Most distillation units use copper pipes, and copper is toxic to most invertebrates, such as corals and shrimps.

7. Add Live Rock

Once you’re satisfied that all your equipment is running well, you can begin adding live rock to the aquarium. The rule of thumb is to arrange the rock so that it takes up about 1/3 of the visual volume of the aquarium, or 1 to 2 lbs per US gallon. The final arrangement is a matter of personal taste. Add other decorations that you plan to use, then finish filling the tank to the intake level of the overflow unit.

Tip: Do not pile the rock up against the back of the aquarium. Try to construct loose arrangements of rock with many overhangs and bridges between the rocks. This will allow for water circulation and for detritus removal.

Did You Know?

You can alter the size and shape of the live rock with a hammer or chisel if you need to.

Note: during the cycling/curing phase of the tank, do not turn on your aquarium lights. Lighting should be turned on when you add the first inhabitants.

8. Cycle The Tank

New aquariums do not have the necessary bacteria for your inhabitants to survive. Cycling is a crucial step in establishing the biological filtration for the aquarium.

Tip: A biological additive such as Fluval Biological Enhancer can be used to help jump-start the nitrification process.

A water change should be preformed every week in the beginning. Replace about 50% of the water. Once the tank is stable, the water change frequency can be reduced.

Note: during the curing phase you will need to clean your mechanical filter often. The filter media will quickly become clogged with debris that loosens and floats free from the live rock. Additionally any siphon out loose debris on the sand bottom should be siphoned out on a weekly basis.

After the first week begin testing the aquarium water. When ammonia, nitrite and other water parameters are acceptable, perform a water change, turn on the aquarium lighting and add your first inhabitants.

Did You Know?

Water evaporates from the tank but the salt will remain. Therefore, if you allow too much water to evaporate without replacing it, the salinity of the aquarium water will increase and harm the inhabitants.

9. Adding Aquatic Inhabitants

The first species to be added to the aquarium should be scavengers to help with maintenance. Add algae-eating species such as snails and small hermit crabs. These are the hardiest species for a new reef system and will help keep any substrate clean and turned over.

Note: add only a few specimens at a time. Give your system two weeks to adjust before adding the next batch of specimens.

Next, add your corals. As with the algae-eating species, you should only add a few at a time and wait approximately two weeks between further additions. This allows your biological filtration to adjust.

The final additions are your fish and invertebrates. As with the previous additions you should only add a few at a time to allow the biological filtration to adjust.

Remember, ongoing maintenance is key to keeping a healthy, thriving aquarium. It’s important to perform regular water testing and water changes as part of your maintenance routine.

Fluval Tv

Reef Aquariums

Francis Yupangco discusses the features and benefits of Fluval’s Reef aquarium series